![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:44 • Filed to: OPPINIONS | ![]() | ![]() |
I've decided I want a Corvette. Possibly even instead of a Miata
I'm thinking C4 will be in the right price range to be attainable once I have a house. Am I insane? Any advice on Corvettes?
Why a Corvette? Well, 'murica. Seriously that's about the only reason I can think of. They've grown on me, and I think it'd be fun to start my multiple car ownership phase by owning 2 cars from the same manufacturer. Being a targa the Corvette would appease my open roof dreams, and being a Corvette it'll fit in here well.
Also V8s sound awesome
Obviously I have a lot of research to do as I know literally nothing about these, but that's most of the fun in thinking about cars to buy down the road. I mean hell, I know way more than I ever knew about NA Miata's after hunting for one for a few weeks.
What say you oppo? Should I keep lusting after a Corvette, or stick to the Miata until I can afford a newer generation 'vette (or Porsche Cayman/Boxster)?
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:47 |
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I'd recommend 1989 or newer with a manual. Stick with the coupe as well. Otherwise, I've not no useful advice. My 87 has been very reliable, with the only problems being the alternator and seat motor. Though it does have a few leaks...
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:49 |
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Make sure the stanced MK IV Jetta bros don't steal your sawblades.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:49 |
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I hope you like chassis flex with those C4s. That's pretty much all I know, oh and those LT1 motors suck. Save up for a c5 or c6.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:50 |
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I see no issue with this, go for it! If you get sick of it, sell it and THEN get a Miata
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:50 |
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I've decided that I want a corvette too. My wallet however has decided that 'murican V8 power isn't right for me.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:50 |
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This C4 is probably going pretty cheap. Ran when parked.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:50 |
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So you really do "wear" a c4, I'm a tall guy and miatas seem more spacious than C4's. They are great cars and buy the newest one you can. The 93+'s are great cars with most of the kinks worked out. They did have a few GM "problems" one of the biggest being the optispark ignition system, but its replaceable. The LT1/4/5 motors should run forever as well and sound amazing. Hit up corvetteforums.com for more info and facts.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:53 |
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Nothing is wrong with you and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:54 |
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You can probably pick up a 'Maro on the cheap. Just saying ...
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:55 |
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With C4s, get a 1990+ manual, that will it will have a legitimate 6-speed instead of the 4+3 manual with electronic overdrive. Those were nightmares. Also, find a 1992+ with an LT1 or, ideally, a 1996 with an LT4. The LT1 is a stout engine with a lot of potential and decent performance out of the box. The LT4 is all that was right with Corvette, and makes a lot more than the 330hp that Chevy advertised.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:56 |
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I'll check out the forums.
I'm not tall (5' 8") but I'm not skinny (207 lbs and falling). I drove an NA Miata this week, it was fine except for the steering wheel being too low, so I'm not terribly worried about space
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:58 |
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Like Calzone said Camaro will do nicely Firebirds too!
And you can always go Fox body if you want a 5.0!
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:58 |
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I like Corvettes but I would probably stick with a C5 or newer. The C5 is a huge improvement over the C4.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 13:59 |
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I'm 100% behind this decision. A lot of people on here have never really driven a vette or gone for a spirited ride in one of these C4's. If there's anything wrong with them it was never apparent to me. and they're a blast.
I still turned my head for one just yesterday while driving!
GO WITH THE VETTE.
Also, I hate miatas. (yeah I said it, big whoop wanna fight about it?)
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:00 |
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Can confirm. V8 power sounds the best. Windows cracked no matter the temp just to hear the rumble
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:02 |
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There's nothing wrong with an LT1. And I doubt many of us on here are going to drive our cars hard enough on a track to feel the "chassis flex"
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:02 |
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The later C4s are fucking awesome. You shouldn't feel bad at all.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:03 |
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A bulletproof 300hp V8 sucks? Ok.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:06 |
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Optispark. I've heard it's a bit of a random problem but it's still concerning.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:07 |
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RED ROCKET!
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:07 |
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You can easily update the ignition system in them.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:10 |
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If that generation of Vette is as bad as people say, well thats too bad because I love that body style. I'm gunna duck and run but i'm not in the Miata love fest and would take the Vette. Test drive them both first though.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:11 |
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Get the nicest, latest model you can afford, and keep it nice, otherwise it'll quickly look like a piece of shit.
Do yourself a favor and get a 92+ for the LT1, or LT4 if you can swing it.
C4s are really cool cars if kept nice, and the later ones are legitimately quick.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:12 |
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I think he's on a budget.
That said, by the time you find the best, low mile LT1 or LT4 C4, you could probably be in a decent C5 for similar money.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:17 |
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Chassis flex is an issue when driven hard. There are extras you can purchase after market to minimize it, though.
The LT1, however, is a great motor. OptiSpark problems are hugely overrated., the engine has a good power and torque band, and while it isn't as ubiquitous there are still plenty of parts for it.
If any motor sucks, it's probably the LS1; it's no better than an LT4. It was the most underwhelming update to Corvette powerplants on this side of 1980. All-aluminum wasn't even new to Corvette.
The only objective reason to get a C5 is for the better chassis. That's it.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:19 |
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Yeah, I'm around 6 3, and I fit fine in a C4
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:22 |
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In my opinion, the LT1s have a bad rep that isn't quite deserved.
1.) The Optispark can be just fine, but the water pump weep hole is right above it. They do go bad and while they are not difficult to fix the quality of the replacement Optis has gone down in recent years. I believe MSD is the best of the bunch now. Cheap optis can go bad in less than 1000 miles. That is not an exaggeration. You can convert to a non-opti with LS1 coils but it is not really that cheap. Try and get an LT1 with the vented opti setup vs. the non-vented. You can affix a tube to the water pump weep hole to route any coolant away from the opti but you cannot seal the hole. Resist the urge to install an electric water pump for street use.
2.) Finding a tuner is also harder than it used to be. Not a big deal if you are only going to lightly mod with bolt ons and a mail-order tune.
3.) Reverse flow cooling is not a huge deal but something to be aware of. When you flush the coolant or drain it for whatever reason you have to follow proper bleeding procedures or you'll constantly run hot.
4.) It is very easy to get to 300-325 hp at the wheels with minor bolt on mods
5.) If you are going to mod, forget about the LT4. Not worth the extra $ and you can do way better for less money. Just paint your intake red.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:23 |
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Now we're getting some knowledge dropped!
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:24 |
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The earlier ('84-'93) seats are narrow and a squeeze for larger individuals with aggressive bolstering. Late seats ('94-'96) offer more room in exchange for some less aggressive bolstering, but still offer far more support than C5 or C6 seats.
The car is smallish inside. The engine is actually mounted with a slight passenger-side bias to allow the driver more room for his feet to operate the three pedals in a manual more comfortably. The C4 is the last Corvette that has an engine-mounted transmission.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:28 |
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At 5"8 you'll fit in a C4 just fine. I have a 6"1 300+ pound guy in my passenger seat once, though he probably wouldn't have fit in the drivers seat.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:29 |
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![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:29 |
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I would imagine you have to be REAL tall to not fit in a C4 Vette.
My only question would be about how bolstered the seats are, which can get uncomfortable if your heavier. (good for you that it's falling! Me too!)
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:30 |
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I had a 1994 and now have a 2002. The C4...was pretty bad...and will end up costing you what a c5 would very quickly. C5 is a huge improvement and prices for them are just a bit over $10k.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:31 |
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I think C4's are a good choice for the Corvette buyer on a budget. I've often thought of trying to talk an acquaintance into selling me his 1990 (that he bought new), except that it's an auto...
![]() 03/27/2014 at 14:45 |
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Ah yes. Come to the dark side. My thoughts on the C4...I wanted one in college, maybe that lead me to buying my car post college. Who knows. Personal opinion of the C4, they have awkward cramped interors. As most will tell you, go for 89 and newer because of the 6-spd. I would even suggest trying to get into an LT1 car, or a 96 only LT4. Just beware the Optispark.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:04 |
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Bolstering could be a problem. I need to go check out the Focus ST again, when I first looked at them I was ~230 and the bolsters were really awful, now I'm at ~207 so it might be better.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:04 |
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Jeez, you might as well have tagged this "AXIALBAIT."
I say go for it. Forget the Miata, it's incredibly overrated at any price point, especially used. Miatas and C4s fall into the same bracket at the used level, but everything the Miata can do, so can the Corvette. And more. For new Miata prices, you can also get into a ZR-1. Why do people buy Miatas, again?
The C4 catches a lot of flack. They are known as being slow, flimsy, uncomfortable, and unmaneuverable. The fact is, however, that the C4 is none of those and the preceding (and beloved) C3 was all of them.
All C4s are faster than the huge majority of C3s. All C4s are better built, period. All C4s are more comfortable, period. All C4s are more maneuverable, period.
Oh, and the C4 is also safer, more fuel efficient, and more livable with its lift-up glass hatch that only the 1982 Collector Edition previously featured. So there's that, too.
The model years that most people gravitate to are 1989, 1990, 1995, and 1996 . In MY1989, the ZF6 six-speed transmission was introduced to replace the 4+3 manual; MY1989 also features the stiffer suspension bits from the early cars and that makes it a very good autocross car. It also retains the early styling inside and out, including the iconic digital dash. MY1990 offers the upgraded interior with driver's side air bag and analogue gauges, but is otherwise very similar to the MY1989 car. MY1995 is the newest of the C4 Corvettes that still features OBD I, and that has certain advantages for some. The ZR-1 of this model year also featured the most power from improved "Dunn" heads. MY1996 adds OBD II into the mix, as well as the Grand Sport and Collector Edition packages. All MY1996 cars equipped with a manual also feature the LT4 engine, which in real-world numbers usually produces about 350 HP and 360 lb. ft. of torque (suck it, C5!). There is no ZR-1 for this model year.
There are also some maintenance differences.
On the earlier cars, electronics tend to go out more often, especially with the gauge cluster. This can get costly to repair, but usually if you got it fixed once or it has been fixed recently, it won't ever need to be fixed again because we are just that much more awesome with electronics today. Also watch for head gasket issues on cars featuring aluminum heads between 1986.5 and 1990. Don't be scared of the 4+3 transmissions on the '84-'87 cars; if you use the clutch when you toggle the Overdrive on and off and if you change fluids and seals at regular intervals (say, 10,000-20,000 miles), it will last forever.
On 1992-1993 cars, they use a non-vented OptiSpark distributor system which can fail if moisture accrues inside. It's actually not as big of a deal as most make it out to be, just replace it with a vented unit from a 1994 or later model. Also pay attention to the sensor type being used in the Opti; a lot of after market replacements use cheap sensors that don't last nearly as long as the OEM Mitsubishi unit.
All cars may have a busted antenna actuator, which causes the antenna to remain in its "Radio On" position. Fixing it is inexpensive, but can take time. Any car with a ZF6 transmission also uses a dual-mass flywheel; they do not make these anymore and they can't be resurfaced. When it's time to replace the clutch, check the flywheel. If ooze is coming out from between the plates, it's time to replace it with an aftermarket single-mass kit. If it's in good shape, you can use a burgundy Scotch-Brite pad to gently clean the face. If it's any comfort, I'm at 96,000 miles on my '96 and still on the original clutch. Most seem to get to around 120,000 miles before the clutch needs replacing.
Weather seals are also a common point of failure. You probably don't need to be told, but don't ever take a C4 through an automated car wash.
Now for some behavioral quirks and useful trivia:
The ZF6-equipped cars do have CAGS. Most people have bypassed it, but just be aware that it is present.
Taking off the roof will make the car go all limp since the targa roof was a last-minute executive change after the design was all but final; buy a targa strut to put on in place of the roof and it'll be much better.
There is noticeable cross-talk in the rear suspension and you will feel the car go all loose when rolling over sand or gravel. As in "barely giving it gas in third" kind of loose
Fuel tank is in the back, which means the car gets tail-happy when you are low on fuel, speaking of which...
Never trust the fuel indicator when it's at half or below. An indication that you are half full means you probably only have a quarter of a tank left; the car holds 20 US gallons
These cars like to run hot; normal coolant operating range is between 175 and 195 degrees, and the oil goes higher than that. You will find that the car even responds better when at these temperatures
The ZF6 gearbox is really noisy on '89-'92 cars, owing to the straight-cut gears. They switched to helical cut some time during MY'93 and that made it quieter, but it still sounds like a supercharger
The 4+3 sets the Overdrive to "On" by default every time you start the car, but won't engage until it reaches operating temperature; avoid surprises by toggling it off first thing every time you start the engine.
The ZF6 hates 35 miles per hour, the 4+3 does not
Manual cars come with a tougher D44 differential versus the automatic's D36
The car will idle high until it warms up a little bit
LT4 cars come with SLP shorty headers from the factory and there are no better shorty headers to replace them with; you have to go long-tube to improve it
L98 cars have a torque jump at 2800 RPM and will kick you in the pants accordingly. It is fun, and leads to a more entertaining stoplight-to-stoplight driving experience than the LT1/4.
Hope all of this helps!
Signed,
1996 LT4 C4 Driver
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:04 |
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I live in Kansas, so it's not like I'm going to be tearing up canyon roads...
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:05 |
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That's my biggest question for you really because they are awesome cars.
The bolsters were A LOT less subtle in the C4 vs the C5 if I remember correctly.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:06 |
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It's going to be a cost issue. I probably won't even be able to afford a C4, so it's likely pipe dream.
I'm probably looking in the $10,000 range, and that's my optimistic wishful thinking that I can spend $10,000 on a second car in a year or so.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:09 |
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I probably wouldn't do too much modding, I'm not going for a performance monster really, just a fun second car. Probably just exhaust for noise and reconditioning this and that.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:10 |
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Then go for it if you can! The opti stuff is more a reliability issue than performance.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:10 |
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It helps to own/have owned the cars before declaring anything about them as fact. :þ
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:12 |
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Hahahaha nice.
Yeah I've gone for some great rides in C4's and C5's. If it's not going to be a dedicated track car chassis flex will never come up, and there's subframe connectors for that.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:14 |
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I really, really want to drive one. I've driven plenty of Miata's, I've only sat down in 2 Corvettes ever.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:17 |
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Subframe connectors, convertible X-brace (which you can apply to coupes), front and rear cross-members...
Honestly, if you are going to be racing it this hard you are going to put a cage in it anyway. The only issue with tracking a C4 so hard is that it forces you into racing classes where people are allowed to start with already better cars since it's an "every mod goes" thing. There is a member on the Corvette Forums who traded in a gorgeous, track-prepped C4 for a C5Z06 for this exact reason.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:23 |
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I think I'd go for a C5 if I could find one for the right price.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:24 |
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It may end up going the other way around. Miata first, then sell it to get a Corvette later.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:33 |
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Wow, lots of information, thanks!
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:40 |
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Shoot, if you were buying now I'd sell the one I've got to you for that.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:42 |
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Although they start at $11 k, $14k gets you something with less than 100k miles. A buddy of mine picked up a c5z for $17k with minor leaks etc.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:43 |
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If you haven't already, see my reply above about bolstering in this particular thread.
Also, where is most of your height? I'm 5' 8.75" and I have my seat pulled all the way forward. I have a little more height in my legs than in my torso.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:43 |
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Ah, yeah Corvettes hold their value surprisingly well. But they also tend to have low mileage since so many of them aren't kept as people's main car. I searched on Autotrader for manual-transmission C5s within 300 miles of my zip code in Wisconsin (this radius includes Chicago), and there are 42 of them with under 30k miles. 13 of those are Z06es. Seems like the price range is right around $17-25k for good cars, and more for the particularly low mileage ones.
I don't know if prices will drop down to $10k range within the next 2 years, but you could hope that they would at least move in that direction.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 15:49 |
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you need to.
POWWWEERRRRR
something miata's don't come equipped with
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:10 |
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Unfortunately I'm not. Check back with me in a year lol
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:11 |
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Yeah, that'd be pushing it. Maybe not too much, but pushing it.
I was initially looking at a Miata at 3-5k, but that was assuming I bought one now. Once I own a house I think I might try to save up a little bit longer towards something nicer, and who knows, I might be willing to make payments for a little while to get something really nice.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:12 |
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I sit fairly close the the steering wheel when I'm in cars. My legs aren't exceptionally long.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:13 |
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I hope they move down a bit, but that also would lend itself well to getting something like a Miata next year, and then another year or two later sell it and get a 'vette when I have more cash.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:13 |
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=þ
Time sensitive offer, though not for the same reasons as dealerships give "time sensitive" offers (read: being dicks). There is one car I discovered on Sunday that I want to acquire ASAP and it requires me to sell/trade my current Corvette.
It'll probably be gone within two weeks, much less a month, if I don't get to it.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:15 |
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C4 pedals might be a stretch, then. Still, sit in one. I may just be weird in that I like having some slack in my knee when I depress the clutch.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:40 |
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You need curves and elevation change to enjoy either of those.... I would move first.
How about a classic truck instead?
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:45 |
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just got a black 86 and i love it. for everyone who tells you they are slow needs to get out and drive more because on the dry first gear is usless and in the wet 3rd non o/d is as well if you are enthusiastic. and when you want to go for more power a 383 build can cost just under a grand. also Targa! its so good.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 16:53 |
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Moving isn't an option. I might pick up an early S10 at some point, but otherwise I'm not into trucks
![]() 03/27/2014 at 17:14 |
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no kidding.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 18:56 |
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Very nice write up :)
As far as the ZF6 hates 35 mph thing, I don't agree... I actually have my 35mph cruise control. Put the car in 5th and don't touch the accelerator. It will stay at 35mph even with a small incline :)
![]() 03/27/2014 at 19:02 |
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No problem at all for the Corvette. I'm 6'1 and weigh 180lbs. It's my daily driver. Perfect length for the feet, headroom is "fine" but I can't necessarily scratch my head the way I would like to sometimes. As far as space in general is concerned, I personnaly slept in my trunk a couple times very confortably so... The armrest is perfectly lined up with the trunk which makes it very confortable if you sleep on your side.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 20:59 |
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Manual '95 here and I have tons of fun with it. Cheap to maintain, fast, fun and tail happy... Wished it had a bit more steering angle but other than that, a great daily driver. The C5 is indeed a big improvement though, but unless it's a Z06, I don't like them as much.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:00 |
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Yeah, but it sounds terrible while doing it. :( Strained. I don't know which engine you have, but when I am so low in any given gear's range the LT4 makes a reciprocating "sck sck sck sck" sound that tapers off when the revolutions increase. It happens when in third at 17 MPH, in fourth at 25 MPH, fifth at 35 MPH, etc.
I don't generally engage fifth unless I'm over 42. My daily driving gear changes are usually at 17, 28, 35, 42, and 60 MPH.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:05 |
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But a stock LT4 will start more conversations than any modded LT1 or even a stock LT5.
Personal experience. :)
Good overview of the LT1.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:08 |
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I daily drive my C4, but even I haven't slept in it. That's hardcore.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:14 |
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C5s are bigger, and the interior is a step down from the C4 even if it has more room. The transmission isn't as nice, but then no newer Corvette transmission has been as nice as the ZF6 anyway. The seats are super-meh.
The C5 is probably a little easier to live with, but I don't get as much enjoyment out of them. Somebody once said "the C4 feels fast, the C5 is fast." It's true, but I think the feel is the entire reason to get the car at all if you don't plan on tracking too much.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:19 |
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I'll be checking out both. I just set up autotrader to alert me of any manual vettes under 20k...gonna see if I can get a test drive sometime
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:21 |
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Sssssssssssssssssshit.
I hope you don't set your sights on the one I'm looking at, ha ha. You'll probably know it when you see it, it's special.
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:35 |
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Don't worry, I'm not buying anytime soon. If I bought a car now the most I'm paying is $3500. I just set up the alert to keep myself motivated
![]() 03/27/2014 at 21:52 |
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Yeah my '94 lt1 will always be my first. Many good memories. Had a series of issues that led me to sawzall the roof off after the opti took a shit and I determined the best hp/$ was in valvesprings. I told myself I'd remove everything that rattled and that was the end. My c5z was the savior
![]() 03/27/2014 at 22:13 |
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Plus they are more collectible/hold better value! :)
![]() 03/27/2014 at 23:23 |
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Ha ha, I like to think so, but that is debatable. I see plenty of LT1s go for more than LT4s in similar condition. True, the number of LT4s is around the ballpark for the number of ZR-1s, but it's overshadowed by the Grand Sport proper (which you can actually find for $15,000 in great shape, just not a red guts example). KBB pegs my car at $between $7600 and $8500, and mine is in great shape for a 17-year-old, driven vehicle.
Red gut Grand Sports, on the other hand, command ZR-1 prices. Ooooh boy do they get expensive...
![]() 03/28/2014 at 07:59 |
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Hum... that's pretty weird. I have no problem at all with it. When you think of it, the 1 to 4 (have not removed it) makes you shift from 1 to 4 at 16 mph, so 5th at 35 mph works like a breeze normally. The idling torque of the V8 maintain the speed and does not force on anything. It's very quiet. I have a 95 LT1, so it's supposedly very similar to the LT4.
You might want to get it checked as I definitly don't think it is a normal sound from a C4.
![]() 03/28/2014 at 08:54 |
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I was actually thinking more about the F-Body LT4 applications in '97. Granted those are all special edition cars.
![]() 03/28/2014 at 11:51 |
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My 1-to-4 has been bypassed. It still gives me the light, but I have the option to shift to second without having to goose it.
Don't get me wrong, shifting so early isn't a problem for the engine. It handles it. I just get what I think is a bunch of valve-train noise. I do have slightly worn valve guides (little bit of oil on the plugs).
![]() 03/28/2014 at 11:54 |
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LT4-equipped Firehawks and the like are also pretty valuable, with so few made. Somebody was offering one in trade over on Corvette Forums, and the dollars value he sought was over twenty large. Very special cars, those, sticking it to the LS1.
![]() 03/30/2014 at 01:17 |
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TBI sucks. LT1 is good.
![]() 03/30/2014 at 07:15 |
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nothing wrong. cheap V8 thrills? i'm starting to fancy one too (and i really like the C4s as well